One of the big benefits of sewing my own stuff is that I can have more of what I like and less of what I don’t like. Right now the top of the like list is occupied by anything made out of silk. Silk comes in a number of weaves, but my favourites are silk charmeuse, chiffon, four ply silk crepe, and of course crepe de chine. These two tops are made from silk charmeuse which has a matte side and a shiny satin side. I always prewash (in the washer) and dry this fabric (in the dryer) before sewing it. I usually use patterns with little or no interfacing, and a fairly flat construction.
This line drawing is scanned from the February 2008 Burda Style magazine, because the pattern is no longer available online. You can see how the original pattern was intended to be used.
This pink plaid version is closer to the standard pattern than the solid pink version below. I bought the fabric from Emma One Sock a couple of years ago. In my mind it has been a tailored shirt, lining for an as yet unfinished (actually unstarted) skirt (maybe a pant) suit, a floaty wrap dress, and a blouse-matching-a-lining for a Chanel style suit. I live a well dressed imaginary life!
In the original pattern a fabric tube is constructed at the front of the scarf so the tail can be threaded through. The scarf is attached around from the back and hangs down the front. I didn’t like the idea of leaving the unattached part at the side and I wanted more room in the neckline since the top is a pull-over. I added buttons and loops at the shoulder seam and rather than a fabric tube on the front of the scarf, I added a loop to the back.
I thought the whole assembly would just be a little less bulky that way….oh…and the scarf is just a single width, folded over, rather than the double width as proposed on the pattern instructions (those are just guidelines).
The plaid version is quite a bit longer than this pink one. I wanted to tuck it in and didn’t want to constantly struggle with it to keep it tucked in.
The pink shirt is the same body pattern without the scarf and with a bound slit in the front. The drawstring provides the shaping for the neckline and there is a bonus to the fact that it is adjustable.
For both of these versions I used a method of finishing the armhole that I think provides a reliably good result. If it is always pressed from the inside of the blouse, it is barely visible on the outside. The full technique is shown here.
I’m going to do a few more of these.